Thursday, May 19, 2011
Some daily inspiration
Love the contrasting black, red and white theme, a perfect combination for Winter 2011 - Porcelain skin, ruby red lips, chiseled cheekbones and heavy black eyes.
http://networkedblogs.com/i5HfY
Monday, May 16, 2011
Luxe Lashes
If you have shorter, straighter lashes use an eyelash curler to give them some curve and lift which will help to open the eye up and make them look bigger.
Open the eyelash curler like scissors, and position in the middle of the lashes close to the root. The handle of the curler should gently press against your cheek. Close gently, and hold closed for a few moments. Open completely before removing and slide halfway along the lashes and re curl. Curl lashes prior to using mascara or they may stick the curler and pull some of your lashes out. Gently warm the curler by blasting quickly with a warm blow dryer, check the temperature on the back of your hand before using. Burning your eye with hot metal is definitely uncomfortable!
Just as you use a makeup and eye primer to achieve a better application and longer lasting result a mascara base or lash booster applied before mascara a will protect, hydrate and lots volume so that your lashes will look longer and fuller.
Not only will a conditioning balm thicken the lashes, nourishing them with high quality oils, waxes and vitamins will help keep them silky smooth. Mascara base will go on white and dry clear. Coat the lashes to build them up.
Mascara is an essential part of the perfect eye makeup to finish defining and framing the eyes. It is the easiest way to dress up the eyes. It is important to choose the right mascara and brush for your lashes.
Choose a formulation that is highly pigmented for intense colour and long lasting. The right mascara can thicken sparse, fatten the thin and lengthen the short. The latest technology mascaras will help you achieved your desired effect. Different formulations will help you achieve curl ,volume, and optical elongation and different brushes will help you achieve seperation and precise definition to finer and shorter inner and outer corner lashes and added fullness. For a fuller lash, choose an oversized wand or add length with a lengthening formula.
For the ultimate false lash effect mascara my choice is several coats of Wonderlash top and bottom for long, lush lashes. The elastic wand allows maximum lashings of colour and lash separation.
Pump up the volume for a full flutter. Apply 2 - 3 coats of mascara one or two shades darker than your natural lash colour for definition.
Tip: To ensure that the colour does not smear during application, always apply to the lower lashes first and then the upper lashes.
The best way to use mascara is to twirl the wand around the inside of the tube, pumping the wand will force air inside which will dry out the mascara. Also try not to wipe excess at the top of the bottle as this will eventually dry and make the lid sticky.
http://www.artdeco.de/en/cosmetics/features/make-up-school/profi-tips/mascara-guide/
To make an eye makeup look dramatic and sophisticated, false eyelashes are the way to go and can totally change the look of a makeup and give your look extra oomph.
Faux lashes are fun & flirty and instantly add some glamour. Artificial lashes can be applied for an understated to highly expressive look using Artdeco permanent lashes. There are many different brands of lashes on the market in varying shapes and thickness. Trial and error will determine your favorites and what fits best and works best for your eyes however there are a few styles which are always a good starting point from naturally lush lashes to extremely fake lashes.
Individual lashes - applied to the outer lash line gives a winged effect which lifts the eyes.
Natural lashes - great for all eye shapes and will open and lift the eye. Usually soft and wispy and has a clear lash line to blend easily.
Seperated lashes - great to give your top lashes extra definition. Clear base keeps it looking natural and easy to blend.
3/4 lashes - great for all eyelids to lift and open the outer corner. Usually has a black base for a more defined look. Blend some liner into the lash line into the inner corner for a seamless finish.
High impact/Heavy strip lashes - great for a dramatic look, large and asian eyes. Usually full with a blend of lengths. If you are applying lashes to the bottom lash line apply them first and make sure the adhesive is completely dry before doing the top lashes so they do not get stuck together.
http://www.artdeco.de/en/cosmetics/makeup/eyes/eyelashes/
Tip: Apply lashes with a waterproof latex for a long lasting professional result. A standard glue is white and will dry clear. A high strength glue is more suitable for a heavy strip lash for more support.
How to apply falsies perfectly every time
For individual flared lashes:
Curl your lashes first. Apply mascara to top and bottom lashes.
Use tweezers to pick up a flared lash at the base from their box.
Apply a little adhesive to the base, allow it to go tacky so it adheres well and then place the flare lash onto your own lashes as close to the lash line as possible. Work from the outside to the inside.
Apply mascara if desired to blend lashes together and for more definition.
Curl your own lashes so they curve with your false lashes otherwise your natural lashes will poke out from underneath. Apply mascara to coat your own lashes.
Place the lashes against your lash line, if they are too long when you're eye is in a downward position and extends past your natural lash line then trim them to size, remembering that you will want to adhere the outer corner about a half a centimetre from the outer corner of your own lashes so that you don't get that heavy, downward drag which will cause they eye to look droopy and give you a dark shadow under the eye.
Gently bend the lashes back and forth between your fingers so the strip curves naturally to your own lash line.
Apply an even coating of adhesive along the whole length of the lashes and give them 30 seconds for the adhesive become tacky so that it sticks to the base of your lashes easily.
Place the strip as close as possible to your natural lash line. Look down into a mirror while applying your lashes.
The best way to do this is to stick the inner corner, middle, and outer corner to create some stability.
Once you are happy that it is in place, push the rest of the strip in place with the back of your tweezers or the tip of a thin brush handle.
Wait a few minutes for the lash adhesive to dry, then gently curl both fake and natural lashes together so the lashes blend smoothly together.
Gently apply a coat of mascara from underneath to give colour consistency to the real and fake lashes and to blend them together.
To remove lashes simply use warm water or makeup remover, even a little olive oil works on a cotton pad and press onto the falsies for a few minutes to break down the adhesive and then slide off. Gently peel from the outer edge being careful not to pull at your own lashes. Strip lashes can be cleaned and reused.
http://www.artdeco.de/en/cosmetics/features/make-up-school/profi-tips/eye-lashes/
http://www.artdeco.de/en/cosmetics/features/make-up-school/video-make-up-guide/part-1-glamour/
Wednesday, May 11, 2011
A Little Bit Cheeky
Blush is the best product to bring a glow to the face, creating a youthful radiance. If you're feeling tired or skin is looking flat, it's an instant pick me up.
When you even out your skin tone with foundation you create a flawless base, without blush there is no definition to the face and you can look a little washed out.
For a complexion boost use blush in a pinky rosy hue for a pretty flush, dust a touch of colour on the cheeks and blend upwards .Look for a natural shade that compliments your skin tone.
The key is to define and highlight cheeks. Use a combination of bronze for contour and pink/coral sheer colour shades for a soft accent and freshness.
Choose a soft, silky texture that will freshen your look. This gives your skin a translucent glow that you can build up for more impact. Shimmery gold undertones work beautifully on all skin tones.
Avoid matt blusher as it can flatten the cheek area and age you. Only use a matte blush to contour underneath the cheekbone to enhance the cheek and team with a soft shimmer blusher.
If you're fair choose light peach or pink. For a rose/pink complexion, use a coral blush instead of a rose hue to keep the overall effect from being too pink.
A soft duo toned bronzer looks more natural on pale skinned, redheads.
For an olive skin pick terracotta or apricot tones.
Cherry red, coral or berry/plum colour blush works well on a darker skin.
In most cases, apply high on the cheekbones as this creates a more youthful look .Cheek colour should be high and closer to the the eyes than the mouth. If you suck in your cheekbones and create heavy stripey lines by brushing up and down you will actually drag down the cheek contours making you look older.
Look straight into the mirror with a relaxed face when applying blush. If you smile when applying your blusher you create fine lines around your eyes where the colour doesn't penetrate and then once you relax you face you look like you have wrinkles and have instantly aged yourself creating the very opposite result to what you are hoping to achieve.
What's your face shape? Where you apply your blush will depend on the shape of your face
Round: Blush on the apples of the cheek will only enhance the fullness of your face, so apply it along the cheekbones, toward the side of your face. This will create a slight shadow that will help thin your face.
Square: Apply blush to the apples of your cheeks and blend it up towards the temples. Failing to blend it well will create a rosy round cheek that will make the angles of your face appear harder.
Heart: A girlie flushed cheek works beautifully. Pat the blush just on the apples of your cheeks, it doesn't need to much blending out to look pretty.
Oval: This classic shape works well with most application styles. To create a gorgeous veil of colour over your cheeks, apply to the apples and blend high along the cheekbones up to the temples.
Most blush blunders are caused by the wrong texture choices. Here's how to choose:
Powder blush gives a polished, glam look. The trick is to apply it after a dusting of face powder as putting it straight onto foundation makes it hard to blend and it will go on patchy.
Use a blush brush to apply high on the cheekbone. Use the top of the ear and tip of the mouth as a guideline - anything above this imaginary line is your cheekbone. Apply in a soft circular sweeping motion for a natural contour for the most flattering and youthful finish.
Cream blush gives a pretty flushed look, that healthy post workout glow and is easy to apply and blend. Pat a small amount of cream blush onto the apples of the cheek with your fingertips and roll into the skin to blend it out. The downside is the cream formulation doesn't last as long as a powder formulation.
Gel and liquid blushers give the most natural look. Apply a few drops over moisturized or dewy skin for best results. Do apply liquid blush over your mositurizer but under your foundation for a glow that looks like it comes from within.
Tip: Match liquid foundation to cream blush and powder foundation with powder blush.
Brush illuminator along the top of the cheekbones for a radiant looking skin. This will not only add a subtle glow but flatter the contours of your face.
When you even out your skin tone with foundation you create a flawless base, without blush there is no definition to the face and you can look a little washed out.
For a complexion boost use blush in a pinky rosy hue for a pretty flush, dust a touch of colour on the cheeks and blend upwards .Look for a natural shade that compliments your skin tone.
The key is to define and highlight cheeks. Use a combination of bronze for contour and pink/coral sheer colour shades for a soft accent and freshness.
Choose a soft, silky texture that will freshen your look. This gives your skin a translucent glow that you can build up for more impact. Shimmery gold undertones work beautifully on all skin tones.
Avoid matt blusher as it can flatten the cheek area and age you. Only use a matte blush to contour underneath the cheekbone to enhance the cheek and team with a soft shimmer blusher.
If you're fair choose light peach or pink. For a rose/pink complexion, use a coral blush instead of a rose hue to keep the overall effect from being too pink.
A soft duo toned bronzer looks more natural on pale skinned, redheads.
For an olive skin pick terracotta or apricot tones.
Cherry red, coral or berry/plum colour blush works well on a darker skin.
In most cases, apply high on the cheekbones as this creates a more youthful look .Cheek colour should be high and closer to the the eyes than the mouth. If you suck in your cheekbones and create heavy stripey lines by brushing up and down you will actually drag down the cheek contours making you look older.
Look straight into the mirror with a relaxed face when applying blush. If you smile when applying your blusher you create fine lines around your eyes where the colour doesn't penetrate and then once you relax you face you look like you have wrinkles and have instantly aged yourself creating the very opposite result to what you are hoping to achieve.
What's your face shape? Where you apply your blush will depend on the shape of your face
Round: Blush on the apples of the cheek will only enhance the fullness of your face, so apply it along the cheekbones, toward the side of your face. This will create a slight shadow that will help thin your face.
Square: Apply blush to the apples of your cheeks and blend it up towards the temples. Failing to blend it well will create a rosy round cheek that will make the angles of your face appear harder.
Heart: A girlie flushed cheek works beautifully. Pat the blush just on the apples of your cheeks, it doesn't need to much blending out to look pretty.
Oval: This classic shape works well with most application styles. To create a gorgeous veil of colour over your cheeks, apply to the apples and blend high along the cheekbones up to the temples.
ARTDECO Tutorial
(1) Take up a little amount of blusher with the Blusher brush and tap against the back of your hand to obtain the correct amount.
2) Apply the blusher to your cheekbones and blend gently in the direction of your hair. To avoid making your face look wider than it is, do not cross the vertical line to the middle of your face.
Tip: Light shades add freshness, darker ones contour.
Most blush blunders are caused by the wrong texture choices. Here's how to choose:
Powder blush gives a polished, glam look. The trick is to apply it after a dusting of face powder as putting it straight onto foundation makes it hard to blend and it will go on patchy.
Use a blush brush to apply high on the cheekbone. Use the top of the ear and tip of the mouth as a guideline - anything above this imaginary line is your cheekbone. Apply in a soft circular sweeping motion for a natural contour for the most flattering and youthful finish.
Gel and liquid blushers give the most natural look. Apply a few drops over moisturized or dewy skin for best results. Do apply liquid blush over your mositurizer but under your foundation for a glow that looks like it comes from within.
Tip: Match liquid foundation to cream blush and powder foundation with powder blush.
Brush illuminator along the top of the cheekbones for a radiant looking skin. This will not only add a subtle glow but flatter the contours of your face.
Tuesday, May 10, 2011
Creating Perfect Eyes Easily
1/ Eye prep: Before applying eyeshadow remove all oil from your eyelids.
Use a eyeshadow base to prep your lids. Apply a small amount all over the lids and in the inner corner of your eyes to even out any discoloration. It helps bring out the pigment of the eyeshadow and intensifies the tone as well as ensures the colour stays crease free & smooth and bright and that it has maximum durability to last.
If you do not have something like Artdeco eyeshadow base you can use some foundation or concealer which will work to prime the area as well and then dust the eyelid with some loose powder which will also help you to blend your eye shadows.
Use a little loose powder under the eyes to catch any colour that falls. Those specks of fall out can be easily swept away without spoiling your foundation or use a baby wipe and then apply your foundation mixed with a luminizer.
2/ Eyeshadow: Sweep the shade onto the mobile lid. Build eye definition with richly pigmented formulas to add colour.
3/ Upper definition and blending: Contour the crease and blend. Soften harsh lines to smoke out the line using a soft, small brush. The shadow should be intense at the lash line and soften as you reach the eye socket. Concentrate the colour on the mobile lid and don't take it too high above the socket line. Use dark colours close to the lashes, then create a smudged look with a slightly softer shade.
4/ Lower definition: Line and define the eye. Apply eyeliner from the inside corner, increasing the thickness of the line as you near the outer corner of the eye. White creamy liner on the inner rim will conceal tiredness and redness and make eyes look bigger and appear more awake and brighter. The secret to a smoky eye is to blend the eyeshadow through the bottom lashes to create a sulrty effect.
5/ Add some highlights: A lighter, silvery hue on the inner corners will make eyes pop and make them appear bigger and brighter.
6/ Curl your lashes and then lash out with 2 coats of volumizing mascara to complete the look and to perfectly frame your eyes. The blacker the formula the better.
7/ Shape and shade your arches.
For the best results you will need at least 3 eyeshadow brushes including a large brush to cover the entire lid with a neutral shade and highlighter colour under the arch of the brow. A larger brush can also double as a blending brush. A smaller eyeshadow brush for the colour across your mobile lid and smudging a darker colour across the socket line. An angle brush will give you a better result for blending under the eye lashes and across the socket line and you can also use this to define your brows and smudge eyeliner into the lash line.
Invest in a magnum pallette to take the guesswork out of mixing and matching shades and for a day and evening mix of colours that can be mixed and matched to create numerous looks. Richly pigmented formulas are wonderful as a little goes far and remember to blend, blend, blend for perfect eyes.
http://www.artdeco.de/en/cosmetics/makeup/accessories/magnet-boxes/beauty-box-magnum-glam-art/
We're in a purple haze with winter 2011's array of berrylicious shades from luscious lavender to vivid violet!
Eye looks made easy:
Black magic
The look is sexy and sultry. Think glossy black eyes and some shimmer to make it glamorous.
This look suits all eye shapes.
To open up a smaller eye line the inner rim with a creamy white pencil.
Create a striking almond shape by blending outwards rather than up, for an elongated, cat like effect. Just don't unbalance the look by extending the colour past the end of your brows.
Gradually build up the colour and depth.
Rim eyes with a soft kohl pencil then blend a midnight shimmer eyeshadow over the top.
Add a slick of liquid liner for more impact and finish with a couple of coats of mascara for added drama.
It's a great choice when you don't have time to touch up your lips, pair smudged black eyes with nude lips.
Smoky eyes are an easy and dramatic way to inject some glamour into any night time look, with neutrals and nude tones to keep the rest of the face soft and natural.
Expert tip: To overcome fallout mess, do your eyes first, foundation second.
Or break the rules and go for a hint of drama with the seasons latest colours. For winter choose plum lips which is complimentary on all skin tones and go dark and sultry and work a smoky violet eye.
Black and charcoal are classic but for a more daytime friendly version choose lighter shades like plum, bronze and peach shadows. They are universally flattering and fresh without being too intense. A brown pencil and mascara create a softer definition.
http://www.artdeco.de/en/cosmetics/features/make-up-school/basic-guide/smokey-eyes/
Jewel toned smoky eyes
Amethyst: Purple shadow works like magic when used as an accent of colour within a traditional smoky eye. A wash of purple eyeshadow gives a sexy smoky eye a feminine twist blended with gold and bronze. The key to perfecting this look is all in the blending - the lines should be softened out from the socket and around the lash line. It will make blue eyes greener and brown eyes pop.
Emerald: Purple not to your liking, use exactly the same technique with an iridescent emerald green shade to brighten and dramatize your eyes. It will make green eyes greener and blue and brown eyes stand to attention.
For extra pop line your eyes in a amethyst or peacock green liner and finish by coating the lashes with 2 coats of volumizing mascara on freshly curled lashes.
Unsure how to wear a brighter or contrasting colour without looking Studio 54 or clownish?
Go for a wash of colour across the entire lid, and slightly under the lower lash line or create an intensive pop of colour close to the lash line or opt for wearing a brighter colour without appearing clownish by using it more as an accent against a more neutral shade like taupe, charcoal, gold and silver.
Apply a bright hue to the inner corners of the eye or on the mid section of the eyelid, just above the iris.You can also use the hue just along the lower lash line for an eye catching yet subtle effect. Want a more extreme look? Slightly wet an eyeshadow brush, dip in water or eyeshadow sealer before applying for a more intense colour hit. Run the colour across the eyelid several times for an eye popping burst of colour. This works great with loose metallic pigments.
http://www.artdeco.de/en/cosmetics/features/make-up-school/trend-looks/pure-minerals-fallwinter-look-201011/
Define it: A black or charcoal liner liner on the upper and lower rim helps give bright eye shadow depth and definition. A smudgy effect adds softness and sexyness where as a liquid liner gives your eyes a more precise and polished finish.
Electrif - eye
Under 30 and have good skin? Make your eyes pop with the latest on trend looks for you lids. Let your eyes be the focus.Remember if the eyes are awash with colour keep the rest of the look simple. Skin dewy, lips subtle.
If subtlety is more your style
Brown & Beige
Brown eyeshadow flatters most eyes as it's less harsh than black, it goes with everything and is impossible to mess up but sometimes can look quite dull. The trick is to layer luminescent beige eyeshadow underneath a deeper chocolate shade blending it over the lids and up to the crease. Experiment with variations of brown from matte to shimmer in rich bronzes and golden mocha and coffee tones to the entire lid, blending up to the crease, don't go above the crease or the look will look more racoon than natural and then pop pure gold in the centre of the lids.
Use a small liner brush and sweep under the lower lash line with a beige shadow to give eyes definition and offset any dark shadows.
Line the inside of your eyes with a chocolate or mocha pencil, then smudge into place so it's stays in place.
http://www.artdeco.de/en/cosmetics/features/make-up-school/trend-looks/nude-look/
http://www.artdeco.de/en/cosmetics/features/make-up-school/basic-guide/sophisticated-look/
Rose and Gold
A natural shell/rose eyeshadow over your lids and blend to the brow bone.
Dab some metallic gold eyeshadow on the centre of each lid. It will catch the light and make your eyes sparkle. Blend it a little to give your lids a subtle glow.
Liliac and Grey
Soft purple and gun metal grey cast a natural sheen against all skin tones because the pigments actually draw light to the face and works particularly well with brown and green eyes.
Sweep a liliac shade over the lid and across the crease. Use a pearly grey along the lash line and blend the grey eyeshadow right up to the brow bone and outwards then line the lower lash line inside and out and smudge it to create depth.
Trace the lower lash line and inner rim with a slick of liner to really amplify your eyes.
Add a little highlighter to the inner corner to look more awake.
The Eyes Have It
Most people will want to make their eyes to be the focus of their makeup and if you have smaller lips they are ideal to highlight and draw attention to.
9 times out of 10 a client will ask me to make their eyes look bigger, brighter and really stand out.
Before you want to try the latest on trend looks or work a smoky eye it is best to know what colours and tones best suit your eye colour, eye shape and compliment your skin tone.
From there you can choose the best eyeshadow shades and textures to create the look your are aiming to achieve and how to emphasize or disguise areas that you do not like.
There are colours we can choose to enhance, harmonize or emphasize our eyes. Neutrals are universal and suit everyone. Matching eyeshadow colour to your eye colour will create a soft, complimentary and more subtle effect and opposite colours will provide a maximum contrast and illuminate your eyes creating intensity which will make your eyes really stand out.
The colour wheel is the basis to all the decisions we should make about colour choice in makeup.
* The 3 colours in the middle are primary colours - red, blue, yellow. They cannot be created.
* Surrounding them are secondary colours - purple, orange and green. They are created when 2 primary colours are mixed together.
* The colours on the outer edge are tertiary colours. They are created by mixing a primary and secondary colour together.
The end result is a spectrum of colours.
Colours opposite each other are complimentary which mean they can neutralize each other when placed on top of each other (which is why a green concealer will reduce redness in the skin). When placed next to each other they emphasize each other (which is why we use liliacs and purples to emphasize green eyes)
Colour is a very relative subject, choosing the right colours can prove to be the key to a perfect result in your eye makeup.
Flatter yourself - The shades in your irises pick up pigments in your eyeshadow, making eyes appear bigger and brighter. Light colours will enhance and enlarge, dark colours intensify and deepen.
Warm skin tones have a yellow/golden undertone and cool skin has a blue or pinkish tone. Keep this in mind when choosing eyeshadow tones.
To compliment your skin tone choose coppers, gold and auburn shades in your hair if you have a warmer skin tone and if you have a cool colouring choose shades with ash, violet or beige tones.
For cooler skin tones go for cool browns, yellow browns can make you look sick. Baby pinks, fuchsias, soft lilacs are flattering for a fairer skin. Jades, emeralds and cool green work especially well as well as turquoise in summer. Avoid very light blues as they will emphasize your skin tone, not flatter it.
For warmer skin tones go for warm russet browns, coppers and golden browns. Air force blue, navy blue and warm blues also work well. Warm greens with a hint of gold, olive green and dark green for a smoky effect. Don't choose light blue tones as they will look grey on your skin.
For olive skins go for neutral or warm golden browns. Warm pinks, burgundies, flamingo pink and coral pink create a contrast. Use warmer or dark blues. Any blues with a hint of grey or purple work well on your skin. Vivid warm and dark greens also work well. Purple is very flattering, especially if your eyes are hazel or green. Avoid light greens as they will blend into your skin tone making it look grey.
Neutrals: Neutral shades can be worn by all eye colours, anytime. Think shades of champagne, gold and browns. The most universally flattering, perfect for any occasion shade of eyeshadow is gold. Gold flatters every skin tone and the yellow and rose based golds are made for highlighting, while the copper hues are great for defining.
Green eyes: Complimentary warm or cool depending on eye tone.
Pink & purples, copper and golds intensify and make the eyes pop.
Blue eyes: Complimentary warm or cool depending on eye tone
Golds, bronzes, Orange and up to red intensify and make eyes pop.
Brown eyes: Complimentary warm or cool depending on tone
Deep inky blue, purple and green intensify and make eyes pop.
Hazel eyes: Brown and greens for cool hazel eyes and gold, bronze, brown for warm golden hazel eyes.
Deep pinks, purples and mahogany intensifies and makes eyes pop.
Maximize your eye shape: In most case we need to minimize or enhance a certain shape. You should always extend lines and eye shadows either 1/3 or 2/3 of the way across the eye. If you shade or line 1/2 way it will cut the eye in half and make it look distorted.
Small eyes: Aim is to make them look bigger
A creamy white eye liner to the inner rim gives the illusion of a larger and more open eye.
Curl your lashes, and apply several coats to the top lash line. False lashes on the top outer corner will help create a bigger eye also.
Add some highlighter to the inner corner to widen and brighten and a touch of highlighter under the arch of the brow.
Use liner to smudge into the outer corner underneath the lash line. Use eyeliner to create a flick starting from the pupil and extend past the outer edge making the eyes seem wider.
Large, round prominent eyes: Aim is to balance or make them a little smaller
For some having big eyes is fabulous - all you need to do is emphasize what you have!
A blended smoky/bronze eye works well for this shape eye.If eyes are big, more roundish and quite prominent you can use matte & darker shades especially to the outer corners.
Border the eyes with dark contours and elongate by blending outwards making sure each colour is blended so the gradation is seamless. This will ensure the eye itself is noticed, and not just the makeup.
Emphasize the inner rim of the eyelid edge with dark eyeliner and smudge. Using a hard edge line will only emphasize the roundness.
Don't set any accents and don't highlight the middle of the eye.
Apply mascara to upper lashes only.
Don't tweeze brow line too thin.
Close set eyes: Aim is to make the eyes look more open and larger
Lighten the area between the nose with concealer.
Apply a light coloured, pearl eyeshadow to the inner two thirds of the lid to widen and brighten.
Shade the outer one third with a darker colour. A contrast of dark and light shadows makes your sockets seem deeper, so your eyes look larger.
Draw the contour line from the centre to the outside of the eye only.
Set accents in the inner corner of the eye.
For small eyes use a liner to create a winged flick on the top lash line making the eye seem wider.
White liner on the inner rim will make eyes appear larger and more open.
Wide set eyes: Aim is to make them appear in balance and closer.
Apply dark eyeshadow to the inner entire moveable eyelid up to the inner corner of the eye.
Draw contour line all around the eye , including the inner corner top and bottom to draw the eye inwards.
Set accents in the lower brow area, if at all.
Sagging, hooded lids: Aim is to set back the droopy lid and to detract attention from the eyelid by playing up your eyes other features.
Create some balance and play up the eyes other features.
Lighten the corner of eye with concealer and use a lighter/brighter matte eyeshadow in the inner corner top and bottom, this way you will see the colour as it doesn't get hidden by the heavy lid.
Use a darker, matte colour across the socket line to push them back and don't extend contour lines to the corner, but gradually shade them our 2 to 3 mm.
Blend a dark bronze outwards towards the lashes. Continue the colour to line the entire eyelid, defining the shape.
Define the inner rim then smudge liner underneath the lash line to soften.
Avoid all shimmering/frosty eyeshadow textures.
Apply a thick layer of mascara to lashes especially the upper lashes to lift the eyes.
False lashes will help to open the eye.
A straighter brow line with slight arch is complimentary.
Almond shaped eyes: Aim is to soften the almond shape
Use highlighting and defining products to flatter the eyes natural contours.
Use a lighter shade on the inner corner to create a more rounded shape.
Shade the outer corners outwards.Create a triangular shape on the lid and then soften it.
Line thicker the middle section of the eye top and bottom to create a more rounded effect to the eye if desired.
9 times out of 10 a client will ask me to make their eyes look bigger, brighter and really stand out.
Before you want to try the latest on trend looks or work a smoky eye it is best to know what colours and tones best suit your eye colour, eye shape and compliment your skin tone.
From there you can choose the best eyeshadow shades and textures to create the look your are aiming to achieve and how to emphasize or disguise areas that you do not like.
There are colours we can choose to enhance, harmonize or emphasize our eyes. Neutrals are universal and suit everyone. Matching eyeshadow colour to your eye colour will create a soft, complimentary and more subtle effect and opposite colours will provide a maximum contrast and illuminate your eyes creating intensity which will make your eyes really stand out.
The colour wheel is the basis to all the decisions we should make about colour choice in makeup.
* The 3 colours in the middle are primary colours - red, blue, yellow. They cannot be created.
* Surrounding them are secondary colours - purple, orange and green. They are created when 2 primary colours are mixed together.
* The colours on the outer edge are tertiary colours. They are created by mixing a primary and secondary colour together.
The end result is a spectrum of colours.
Colours opposite each other are complimentary which mean they can neutralize each other when placed on top of each other (which is why a green concealer will reduce redness in the skin). When placed next to each other they emphasize each other (which is why we use liliacs and purples to emphasize green eyes)
Colour is a very relative subject, choosing the right colours can prove to be the key to a perfect result in your eye makeup.
Flatter yourself - The shades in your irises pick up pigments in your eyeshadow, making eyes appear bigger and brighter. Light colours will enhance and enlarge, dark colours intensify and deepen.
Warm skin tones have a yellow/golden undertone and cool skin has a blue or pinkish tone. Keep this in mind when choosing eyeshadow tones.
To compliment your skin tone choose coppers, gold and auburn shades in your hair if you have a warmer skin tone and if you have a cool colouring choose shades with ash, violet or beige tones.
For cooler skin tones go for cool browns, yellow browns can make you look sick. Baby pinks, fuchsias, soft lilacs are flattering for a fairer skin. Jades, emeralds and cool green work especially well as well as turquoise in summer. Avoid very light blues as they will emphasize your skin tone, not flatter it.
For warmer skin tones go for warm russet browns, coppers and golden browns. Air force blue, navy blue and warm blues also work well. Warm greens with a hint of gold, olive green and dark green for a smoky effect. Don't choose light blue tones as they will look grey on your skin.
For olive skins go for neutral or warm golden browns. Warm pinks, burgundies, flamingo pink and coral pink create a contrast. Use warmer or dark blues. Any blues with a hint of grey or purple work well on your skin. Vivid warm and dark greens also work well. Purple is very flattering, especially if your eyes are hazel or green. Avoid light greens as they will blend into your skin tone making it look grey.
Neutrals: Neutral shades can be worn by all eye colours, anytime. Think shades of champagne, gold and browns. The most universally flattering, perfect for any occasion shade of eyeshadow is gold. Gold flatters every skin tone and the yellow and rose based golds are made for highlighting, while the copper hues are great for defining.
Green eyes: Complimentary warm or cool depending on eye tone.
Pink & purples, copper and golds intensify and make the eyes pop.
Blue eyes: Complimentary warm or cool depending on eye tone
Golds, bronzes, Orange and up to red intensify and make eyes pop.
Brown eyes: Complimentary warm or cool depending on tone
Deep inky blue, purple and green intensify and make eyes pop.
Hazel eyes: Brown and greens for cool hazel eyes and gold, bronze, brown for warm golden hazel eyes.
Deep pinks, purples and mahogany intensifies and makes eyes pop.
Maximize your eye shape: In most case we need to minimize or enhance a certain shape. You should always extend lines and eye shadows either 1/3 or 2/3 of the way across the eye. If you shade or line 1/2 way it will cut the eye in half and make it look distorted.
Small eyes: Aim is to make them look bigger
A creamy white eye liner to the inner rim gives the illusion of a larger and more open eye.
Curl your lashes, and apply several coats to the top lash line. False lashes on the top outer corner will help create a bigger eye also.
Add some highlighter to the inner corner to widen and brighten and a touch of highlighter under the arch of the brow.
Use liner to smudge into the outer corner underneath the lash line. Use eyeliner to create a flick starting from the pupil and extend past the outer edge making the eyes seem wider.
Large, round prominent eyes: Aim is to balance or make them a little smaller
For some having big eyes is fabulous - all you need to do is emphasize what you have!
A blended smoky/bronze eye works well for this shape eye.If eyes are big, more roundish and quite prominent you can use matte & darker shades especially to the outer corners.
Border the eyes with dark contours and elongate by blending outwards making sure each colour is blended so the gradation is seamless. This will ensure the eye itself is noticed, and not just the makeup.
Emphasize the inner rim of the eyelid edge with dark eyeliner and smudge. Using a hard edge line will only emphasize the roundness.
Don't set any accents and don't highlight the middle of the eye.
Apply mascara to upper lashes only.
Don't tweeze brow line too thin.
Close set eyes: Aim is to make the eyes look more open and larger
Lighten the area between the nose with concealer.
Apply a light coloured, pearl eyeshadow to the inner two thirds of the lid to widen and brighten.
Shade the outer one third with a darker colour. A contrast of dark and light shadows makes your sockets seem deeper, so your eyes look larger.
Draw the contour line from the centre to the outside of the eye only.
Set accents in the inner corner of the eye.
For small eyes use a liner to create a winged flick on the top lash line making the eye seem wider.
White liner on the inner rim will make eyes appear larger and more open.
Wide set eyes: Aim is to make them appear in balance and closer.
Apply dark eyeshadow to the inner entire moveable eyelid up to the inner corner of the eye.
Draw contour line all around the eye , including the inner corner top and bottom to draw the eye inwards.
Set accents in the lower brow area, if at all.
Sagging, hooded lids: Aim is to set back the droopy lid and to detract attention from the eyelid by playing up your eyes other features.
Create some balance and play up the eyes other features.
Lighten the corner of eye with concealer and use a lighter/brighter matte eyeshadow in the inner corner top and bottom, this way you will see the colour as it doesn't get hidden by the heavy lid.
Use a darker, matte colour across the socket line to push them back and don't extend contour lines to the corner, but gradually shade them our 2 to 3 mm.
Blend a dark bronze outwards towards the lashes. Continue the colour to line the entire eyelid, defining the shape.
Define the inner rim then smudge liner underneath the lash line to soften.
Avoid all shimmering/frosty eyeshadow textures.
Apply a thick layer of mascara to lashes especially the upper lashes to lift the eyes.
False lashes will help to open the eye.
A straighter brow line with slight arch is complimentary.
Almond shaped eyes: Aim is to soften the almond shape
Use highlighting and defining products to flatter the eyes natural contours.
Use a lighter shade on the inner corner to create a more rounded shape.
Shade the outer corners outwards.Create a triangular shape on the lid and then soften it.
Line thicker the middle section of the eye top and bottom to create a more rounded effect to the eye if desired.
Tuesday, May 3, 2011
High Brow
Eyebrows: The perfect frame for every face.
The classic, naturally arched shape suits every face where as the wrong shape and over plucked brows will instantly age you and can make you look ten years older.
Eyebrows can change the entire shape of the face and the nose. If the arch is too high you can look harsh, it can create a puffy eyelid look and make you look heavier. A rounded brow will create a puffy, droopy eye and an over plucked tadpole brow is a very hard and severe look and can make the nose appear very wide.
Your brows should be long, thicker and have a natural and defined arch using your natural shape as an outline to create a youthful and sophisticated look.
The key to the perfect brow is where it starts, lifts and finishes.
How do i shape my brows?
Not sure how to create the perfect shape for your face, then go and see a professional. A brow technician needs about 10 days of growth to restore your shape and a months worth to start from scratch.
DIY:
1/ Prep: Apply a pre treatment cream or have a warm shower to open the follicles.
2/ Draw: Use a white eyeliner and draw a gentle curving template on top and bottom.
3/ Pluck all hairs that fall outside of your template with slanted tweezers. Keep them straight up to the arch, then pluck a tapered line through to the tail.
4/ Trim the long unruly hairs above your brow.
5/ With an angled brush and matt brow powder brush up into the hairs to fill in any gaps. This will give you a softer look than using a pencil. For added definition and hold, sweep through some brow gel. Choose a matching shade or one level lighter as it will add some depth rather than just colour for a youthful and natural look.
Achieving the perfect brow
1a/ Nose line bridge - This is the most important aspect of the brow starting point. Take a look at the width of your nose bridge, is it in balance, smaller or larger than the width of your eye?
If the space is in balance with your eye width then you can line up the inner corner of the eye with a pencil vertically against one nostril. If however you have a wide set nose you will you will need to set the gap between your brows to match your desired nose bridge. If you have heavy close set brows you will need to remove excess to create a perfectly balanced shape also.
1b/ Brow starting point - The starting point should sit at a right angle with the bottom hairs on a horizontal line, this will help to lift the eyes.
2/ Brow arch - Line up the edge of the iris, (approx 2/3 across the eyebrow) or across the pupil and this is where you should create the arch to open and lift the eye.
3/ End of brow - Draw an imaginary line from the corner of your nose and edge of the eye. The end of the eyebrow should finish at this point.
On trend: Brooke Shields made them big in the 80's and once again the statement brow is big news. Thicker, more pronounced brows have been edging their way back into fashion over the last few years.
It's time to embrace european brows. Gone are the days of thin, sharply pencilled on lines, instead a sharp angle and brushed upwards look is in.
Create a brow kit with the right tools to shape, define and accentuate your brows.
Angle tweezers, Brow powder/angle brush or eyebrow pencil and clear brow gel.
Ease your way into the trend by filling in your brows with a pencil or brow powder close to your natural colour. Use soft, feathery strokes to fill in holes, create shape and emphasize the arch with an eyebrow pencil or fill them in with an angle brush and matching powder.
Use a clear brow/lash gel to brush upwards and define the arch for a sleek finish.
Eyebrows a little thin? Use some eye brow stencils and brow powder to gently fill out the shape.
http://www.artdeco.de/en/cosmetics/features/make-up-school/basic-guide/eyebrows/
Colouring eyebrows to complement dyed hair will make them more pronounced. For blondes, go with a slightly deeper tone, because if brows are too pale they can wash our the face and provide no definition around the eyes. For darker hair shades you can go a shade lighter to soften the facial features. Bleaching is not advised at home unless you want orange eyebrows! Go to a professional.
Expert Tip: Pluck after a shower when your skin is still soft, your pores are open and it's less painful.
Perfect celebrity eyebrows - The beautiful Megan Fox
The classic, naturally arched shape suits every face where as the wrong shape and over plucked brows will instantly age you and can make you look ten years older.
Eyebrows can change the entire shape of the face and the nose. If the arch is too high you can look harsh, it can create a puffy eyelid look and make you look heavier. A rounded brow will create a puffy, droopy eye and an over plucked tadpole brow is a very hard and severe look and can make the nose appear very wide.
Your brows should be long, thicker and have a natural and defined arch using your natural shape as an outline to create a youthful and sophisticated look.
The key to the perfect brow is where it starts, lifts and finishes.
How do i shape my brows?
Not sure how to create the perfect shape for your face, then go and see a professional. A brow technician needs about 10 days of growth to restore your shape and a months worth to start from scratch.
DIY:
1/ Prep: Apply a pre treatment cream or have a warm shower to open the follicles.
2/ Draw: Use a white eyeliner and draw a gentle curving template on top and bottom.
3/ Pluck all hairs that fall outside of your template with slanted tweezers. Keep them straight up to the arch, then pluck a tapered line through to the tail.
4/ Trim the long unruly hairs above your brow.
5/ With an angled brush and matt brow powder brush up into the hairs to fill in any gaps. This will give you a softer look than using a pencil. For added definition and hold, sweep through some brow gel. Choose a matching shade or one level lighter as it will add some depth rather than just colour for a youthful and natural look.
Achieving the perfect brow
1a/ Nose line bridge - This is the most important aspect of the brow starting point. Take a look at the width of your nose bridge, is it in balance, smaller or larger than the width of your eye?
If the space is in balance with your eye width then you can line up the inner corner of the eye with a pencil vertically against one nostril. If however you have a wide set nose you will you will need to set the gap between your brows to match your desired nose bridge. If you have heavy close set brows you will need to remove excess to create a perfectly balanced shape also.
1b/ Brow starting point - The starting point should sit at a right angle with the bottom hairs on a horizontal line, this will help to lift the eyes.
2/ Brow arch - Line up the edge of the iris, (approx 2/3 across the eyebrow) or across the pupil and this is where you should create the arch to open and lift the eye.
3/ End of brow - Draw an imaginary line from the corner of your nose and edge of the eye. The end of the eyebrow should finish at this point.
It's time to embrace european brows. Gone are the days of thin, sharply pencilled on lines, instead a sharp angle and brushed upwards look is in.
Angle tweezers, Brow powder/angle brush or eyebrow pencil and clear brow gel.
Ease your way into the trend by filling in your brows with a pencil or brow powder close to your natural colour. Use soft, feathery strokes to fill in holes, create shape and emphasize the arch with an eyebrow pencil or fill them in with an angle brush and matching powder.
Eyebrows a little thin? Use some eye brow stencils and brow powder to gently fill out the shape.
http://www.artdeco.de/en/cosmetics/features/make-up-school/basic-guide/eyebrows/
Colouring eyebrows to complement dyed hair will make them more pronounced. For blondes, go with a slightly deeper tone, because if brows are too pale they can wash our the face and provide no definition around the eyes. For darker hair shades you can go a shade lighter to soften the facial features. Bleaching is not advised at home unless you want orange eyebrows! Go to a professional.
Expert Tip: Pluck after a shower when your skin is still soft, your pores are open and it's less painful.
Perfect celebrity eyebrows - The beautiful Megan Fox
Banish bad hair days forever...
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Get the look from the official GHD website to follow step by step instructions to achieve the look of your choice.
http://www.ghdhair.com/au/get-the-looks
Get the look from the official GHD website to follow step by step instructions to achieve the look of your choice.
http://www.ghdhair.com/au/get-the-looks
GHD Deluxe Midnight Collection ... you shall go to the ball. Outshine everybody with the sleekest ever styler.
The Deluxe Gift set featuring the beautiful new design GHD Gold Classic styler, travel hair dryer, styler pouch with heat resistant roll mat, gorgeous treasure chest, baroque mirror and two sectioning clips. Only $309
" Sleeping beauty woke up in the eighties, when New Wave was big but the hair was bigger "
The Deluxe Gift set featuring the beautiful new design GHD Gold Classic styler, travel hair dryer, styler pouch with heat resistant roll mat, gorgeous treasure chest, baroque mirror and two sectioning clips. Only $309
" Sleeping beauty woke up in the eighties, when New Wave was big but the hair was bigger "
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