Tuesday, May 3, 2011

High Brow

Eyebrows: The perfect frame for every face.

The classic, naturally arched shape suits every face where as the wrong shape and over plucked brows will instantly age you and can make you look ten years older.

Eyebrows can change the entire shape of the face and the nose. If the arch is too high  you can look harsh, it can create a puffy eyelid look and make you look heavier. A rounded brow will create a puffy, droopy eye and an over plucked tadpole brow is a very hard and severe look and can make the nose appear very wide.

Your brows should be long, thicker and have a natural and defined arch using your natural shape as an outline to create a youthful and sophisticated look.

The key to the perfect brow is where it starts, lifts and finishes.



How do i shape my brows?


Not sure how to create the perfect shape for your face, then go and see a professional. A brow technician needs about 10 days of growth to restore your shape and a months worth to start from scratch.

DIY: 
1/ Prep: Apply a pre treatment cream or have a warm shower to  open the follicles.

2/ Draw: Use a white eyeliner and  draw a gentle curving template on top and bottom.

3/ Pluck  all hairs  that fall outside of your template with slanted tweezers. Keep them straight up to the arch, then pluck a tapered line through to the tail.

4/ Trim the long unruly hairs above your brow.

5/ With an angled brush and matt brow powder brush up into the hairs to fill in any gaps. This will give you a softer look than using a pencil. For added definition and hold, sweep through some brow gel. Choose a matching shade or one level lighter as it will add some depth rather than just colour for a youthful and natural look.


Achieving the perfect brow

1a/ Nose line bridge - This is the most important aspect of  the brow starting point. Take a look at the width of your nose bridge, is it in balance, smaller or larger than the width of your eye?
If the space is in balance with your eye width then you can line up the inner corner of the eye with a pencil vertically against one nostril. If however you have a wide set nose you will you will need to set the gap between your brows to match your desired nose bridge. If you have heavy close set brows you will need to remove excess to create a perfectly balanced shape also.

1b/ Brow starting point -  The starting point should sit at a right angle with the bottom hairs on a horizontal line, this will help to lift the eyes.

2/ Brow arch -  Line up the edge of the iris, (approx 2/3  across the eyebrow) or across the pupil and this is where you should create the arch to open and lift the eye.

3/ End of brow
- Draw an imaginary line from the corner of your nose and edge of the eye. The end of the eyebrow should finish at this point.




On trend: Brooke Shields made them big in the 80's and once again the statement brow is big news. Thicker, more pronounced brows have been edging their way back into fashion over the last few years.
It's time to embrace european brows. Gone are the days of  thin, sharply pencilled on lines, instead a sharp angle and brushed upwards look is in.



Create a brow kit with the right tools to shape, define and accentuate your brows.
Angle tweezers, Brow powder/angle brush or eyebrow pencil and clear brow gel.


Ease your way into the trend by filling in your brows with a pencil or brow powder close to your natural colour. Use soft, feathery strokes to fill in holes, create shape and emphasize the arch with an eyebrow pencil or fill them in with an angle brush and matching powder.




Use a clear brow/lash gel to brush upwards and define the arch for a sleek finish.
Eyebrows a little thin? Use some eye brow stencils and brow powder to gently fill out the shape.



http://www.artdeco.de/en/cosmetics/features/make-up-school/basic-guide/eyebrows/

Colouring eyebrows to complement dyed hair will make them more pronounced. For blondes, go with a slightly deeper tone, because if brows are too pale they can wash our the face and provide no definition around the eyes. For darker hair shades you can go a shade lighter to soften the facial features. Bleaching is not advised at home unless you want orange eyebrows! Go to a professional.

Expert Tip: Pluck after a shower when your skin is still soft, your pores are open and it's less painful.

Perfect celebrity eyebrows - The beautiful Megan Fox

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