Paul Mitchell Style System

A few weeks ago I was part of the team working on the first of the Paul Mitchell Style System education seminars. My boss and I were given a brief on the hair and make up direction to be presented to the group.  The first make up look was a simple Minimalism Chic look and then the next two looks were 5 minute makeovers building on the previous look. It would have been nice to have more time but we were on a strict time schedule as there was 9 looks to present all up along with the 2 other hair stylists and their make up artist and the make up looks were a smaller component of the evening.

Minimalism Chic: This look was inspired by the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer collection which saw models wearing the summer trend of the traditional slicked back, high ponytail. The make up direction was neutral and soft.  The new nude is all about a flawless, velvety and expensive looking skin which was created by applying the AD Fluid Mineral Foundation for luminosity and then setting the base with the  Loose Powder Mineral Foundation for a silky, flawless, air brushed finish.

Cheekbones were defined using the Double Finish Cream Foundation in a tone several shades darker than the base ( applied on top of the fluid foundation ) and blended under the cheekbone, around the temples and under the jawline to contour and add shape to the face. Over the top of the Loose Powder Mineral Foundation I layered a warm Duo Bronzer tone and then illuminated the cheekbones with Mineral Radiant Glow Loose Powder and down the nose to create some extra light and shade to the face.

The emphasis on the eyes is in the lashes and liner, I used strip lashes for extra length and fullness and created an angled flicked liner with Long Lasting liquid Liner. The strong, natural arched brow has been brushed upwards and gelled into place with Clear Brow Gel which is a look that has been around for the past few seasons but still remains very on trend. Lips were a nude matt tone to keep the look monochromatic and lined with a nude toned Waterproof Lip Pencil and  lips were filled in with a beige Colour Gloss.

Retro Glam: The second look was to create a smudgy, smoky eye on stage. The 60’s mod influence of a heavy eye teamed with a nude lip is another on trend look for Spring /Summer 2011/12.

I used lots of black matt eye shadow to get the big, rounded doe eyes with a heavy lash line. The key to keeping this look modern and fresh was all in the blending, no harsh angled lines across the lid or outer corner like the original 60’s styled eye. A sexy, smoky eye is smudgy not sharp and defined . I applied a soft black kohl pencil for extra intensity to the bottom and top inner rim (tight lined). This look is about false lashes so I added a few coats of  Wonderlash Mascara to the top lashes to make them look more defined and obvious. A little bit of an icy toned, shimmery Glamour Gloss gloss was applied top the middle of the lips for some extra fullness.

Studio 54: This look was all glam, big hair, strong makeup and was about adding the red glossy  lip to finish the look. My co workers created this hair style for the models on the finale episode of Project runway a few months ago.

The pale lipstick was quickly blotted away. To get a perfect, long lasting red lipstick first line the lip in a Waterproof red lip pencil and fill the lips in lightly to anchor the lipstick. Then use a lip brush to apply the Red Carpet lipstick for a polished application. Red Lip brilliance Gloss was added over the top for that wet look, high shine finish.  A rosy toned Blusher was added to warm up the cheeks and swept from the apples up along  the cheekbone and into the hairline. Gold Mineral pigment was added to the inner corner of the eyes, under the brow and used to illuminate on the cheeks and cupid's bow to add a bit of 70’s disco to the look.

Take a look at what Style Icons had to say...  they forgot to mention my name though!