The bolder the better

I love Elizabeth Taylor's look in Cleopatra. Everything about her face looks amazing. Worn correctly and immaculately applied you can never wear too much eye liner!

The cosmic bright eye shadows teamed with the perfectly flicked liner and deep red lip look for winter are right on trend but looking ahead we see the mood is changing, the look is more 60’s.  

Think Twiggy & Brigitte Bardot  with perfectly defined cat like eye make up,  flicky liquid eye liner and nude lips.  The new mood compliments the androgenous  short haircuts and more controlled hairstyling that is forecast.

The look off the runway is extreme cat’s eye but look to celebrity cat eye looks from the likes of Angelina Jolie, Emma Watson & Katy Perry &  for more wearable looks. Amp up the look with lots of mascara.


Runway:

 Realway:                                               

                               

                                       

                                 

Learn her lines: Recreate their flirty flicks by using a steady hand to trace your upper lash line with black liquid liner, slightly flicking upwards at the outer corner. Use a fine tip felt pen for easy application or brush and liquid pot for  a super fine and precise application. Practice makes perfect!

Angle your head back and look straight into the mirror. With your eyes open, trace along the upper lashes starting at the inner corner of the eye.


Have an unsteady hand? Use your little finger to balance on your cheek and use fine, gentle and short sweeps to draw the liner and then seal them together for a perfectly smooth and seamless line.

Curl the lashes and build up density with a lash primer and then layer several coats of mascara for intense colour and length.

For day balance a razor sharp eye with soft, barely there shades. Keep the skin polished and add a nude lip. For evening, this is a great party look, thicken and extend the line  and continue the line from the outer corner onto the lower lash line, stopping 2/3  under the eye for a more dramatic and edgy look. Accentuate further with individual lashes or go all out with a full set of strip lashes. For a neat and seamless finish reapply the eye liner where the lashes meet the eyelid. 

Avoid this look, it's hard and not very flattering.  Someone get the girl a make up artist.
Edit:  RIP Amy Winehouse

My liquid liner of choice for the past few years has been the Artdeco Long Lasting Liquid Liner. It's like using a fine tipped texta pen that glides easily over the eyelid and creates a perfectly shaped flick at the end. The fine nylon tip enables a precise and easy application. It can be applied in a fine line or easily layered and built up and being long lasting it stays on all day or all night without cracking or wearing off. It dries fast and is smudge proof. Being fragrance free it doesn't irritate my eyes.

Expert tip: Having trouble creating that clean flick at the end or not being able to get the shape even on both sides. I saw this trick being demonstrated by celebrity make up artist Rae Morris and have shown it to many clients to use at home.

Buy a roll of  sticky adhesive tape from the chemist for less than $2 and cut a piece approx  two inches in length. Line up from the outer corner of the eye towards the tip of your eyebrow and press down flat. Not too firmly otherwise it will stick to your foundation and can leave a mark when you remove it which will need to be touched up.

Now trace along your lid and extend over the edge of the tape. Draw your line as long as you like. Allow to fully dry and then peel off the tape - you will have the most perfect, tapered flick.

The tape removes the messy edge and there's no need to touch up and remove any wonky line and smudge the rest of your make up. I have found this to be an excellent technique to use on clients with heavy lids as it creates a perfect shape which lifts and opens their eyes.

Crack that whip

Fashion has gone all leather and lace with a twist of kink drawing inspiration from the controversial 1974 film The Nightporter as seen at Louis Vuitton's Winter 2011/2012 collection. Kate Moss struts her stuff as the finale, puffing on a cigarette. A fantastic show!

The look is a  40s silhouette, squeezed and bound waists in patent leather bustier-belts, flared below-the-knee skirts. Double-breasted coats and jackets, tight tube skirts &military-inspired jodhpur pants.
Accessoried with peak caps in patent leather or fur with chin-straps, high-heeled patent leather boots &  The Lockit bag  - linked with handcuffs to the wrists of the models.

Designer Marc Jacobs told journalists after the show, “We were thinking about obsession, fetishism, and we thought about an old hotel, with its chambermaids and the affairs that go on there, the crimes and scandals. And we just wanted to reveal all the amazing creatures who passed through there.” Sticking to classic black and white, with flourishes of red, yellow, forest green and navy blue'.

The direction for the hair styling has taken a 360 degree turn and is about control with hair styling focusing on sleek lines & tight ponytails. The look is strong yet still soft. Other looks include the androgenyous, short urchin haircut originally made popular by Twiggy and currently being worn by Emma Watson, Michelle Williams & Carey Mulligan  as well as strong partlines & wet looks buns and  wet look hair.

Clean slate:  The new make up compliments the new 60's styling direction with emphasis on big, doe eyes with a really heavy black lash line and false lashes. The look is overall nude: The keys are immaculate skin & sculpted cheekbones. Add a little luminizer to the high points of the face  including cheekbones and brow bone to create some light and shade so the overall effect isn't flat.

Contoured make up can do amazing things for the face, define the cheeks and jawline and slim any areas that need to be. Keep the contouring localized for the day and use a blush brush  to sweep around the temples and under the cheekbone. The rest of the face is bare, the lips nude, long lashes and strong, heavy, gelled brows.

What to do at every age

Teens: 
Go crazy with colour, add shimmer and glitter. At this age you can get away with almost anything.
Choose rosy pink lip stains and flavoured lip balms.
Oil free foundations or sheer tints will best suit hormonal, combination skins. Use antibacterial concealers on blemishes to help heal and camouflage.

20's: 
Your skin is still supple and radiant in your 20's so now is the time to be experimental with your look.
Skin can be oily at this age, so opt for a light oil control formula foundation.
Work it ... you can pull off a bright eye, pass on the black eyeliner and pop your eyes with an electiric hue. Same goes for lips, try fuschia or orange. Gloss is also a girls best friend in your twenties. Think fresh and fabulous.
Not keen on colour? Get back to black with a classic liquid liner, voluminous lashes, groomed brows and vibrant red lip.
Tip: Remove all traces of makeup at night and remember the single most preventable cause of aging is over expoure to the sun, now is the time to use SPF. If you must  - fake it, don't bake it!

30's: 
Time to refine your look as you begin to notice the first signs of ageing, expression lines begin to show around the eyes, cell regeneration is slowing down and the skin may not look as fresh and plump so creating a radiant base is primary.
Using a primer will make a big difference to how foundation sits on your skin.
Cream to pwder or hydrating foundations make for a great base.
If your lashes are beginning to thin use a lash primer and plump them with volumizing mascara.
The eyelash curler should become your second best friend.
Add some bronzer to warm and lift the skin as well.
A classic red, opaque lipstick is a perfect choice for a woman in her 30's.
Warm browns and sublte smoky eye colour, light eyeliner and several coats of mascara comliment a strong lip colour without overpowering it.
Now is the time to find a style that is easy to achieve, looks polished and feels like you.

40's 
You may notice that your skin begins to thin and sag due to the breakdown of collagen and elastin.
Fight dullness with creamy, illuminating foundations. The radiant enhancing ingredients will help to brighten the skin.
Soften wrinkles by using light reflective concealer in a shade lighter than your natural skin tone under the eyes, under the brow bone, down the bridge of the nose and along the cheekbone to lift and contour the face.
As skin ages, lip colour fades. Natural lips are best teamed with a subtle smoky, eye.
Go beyond the pale and wear a bright yet sheer lipstick but always prime the lip area first and use a lip pencil to give a polished finish and to help prevent the colour from bleeding.
Berry shades are flattering to most skin tones and bets teamed with neutral, defined eyes.
Start to add some more colour to the cheek area as skin starts to lose tone, add a fake sun kissed look with a light dusting of bronzer on cheeks and chin.
Keep eye colour above the eye, going below can create the illusion of dark shadows. Define brows.
Lash &  Eye brow tinting will add definition for those with fair hair.

50's and beyond: 
Gravity takes hold and you start to notice the skin drooping and more definite lines begin to show.
At this age it is best to define your best features and bring back your natural radiance and glow.
Easy does it, use anti aging and lifting foundations which add luminosity to the skin. Heavy foundations can sink into wrinkles and make them look more obvious.
Accentuate eyes by opening them up with several coats of mascara to the top lashes.
If the lid is becoming heavy and droopy use a dark brown or matte grey/black eyeshadow on the outer corners and along the socket line to push the heavyness back.
Avoid high shimmer eye shadows as they will settle in lines and only highlight them.
Try a flush of colour to the apples of the cheeks for a youthful flush of colour.
Avoid heavy powders as it can look cakey and aging but add a flattering glow to the skin with a dusting of finely milled shimmer powder, across face, neck and decolletage.
Cream and matte lipsticks should be worn with confidence, be careful to avaoid dark tones as they can make the lips appear smaller.

Expert tip:  A finely milled natural mineral powder foundation creates a luminous coverage for all skin types at any age as well as providing a natural SPF.

Remember, you are only as old as you look! 

Up in smoke

The smoky eye is like the LBD of makeup – always in style.

A softer smoky eye teamed with a neutral lip  works for day, build up the colour, add extra shimmer and choose a bolder lip colour for a stronger evening look. The trick is having the right brushes and a quattro palette to create the look. You will need a highlighter, mid tone shade,  darkest  hue/black and accent colour.

Get the look

Primer time: To get the most out of your makeup always prep skin first with a primer after you have applied an SPF moisturizer to your skin.  It helps smooth skin, balance uneven skin tone by reducing redness and your base will wear longer.

Lay the correct foundation:  Apply a foundation that matches your skin tone exactly. It should disappear into your skin and look healthy looking with a dewy, never shiny, finish.

Look for light diffusing products to minimize flaws and even out your complexion.

Keep the t-zone matte by lightly dusting some powder down the nose, across the chin and forhead.

Illuminate: Highlight sparingly, a touch of highlighter along the cheek and brow bones and along the bridge of the nose. To slim a wide nose, blend bronzer subtly either side of the bridge.

How to work a smouldering, smoky eye.

Eyes: Prep the eye area with an eye shadow base to even out skin tone, intensify the colour and stop creasing.  Apply the lightest colour in your palette like a vanilla or champagne hue over the whole lid with a large eye shadow brush. Avoid stark white shimmer as it can make the area look puffy and the eyes appear heavy.

Use a  soft black kajal pencil to anchor the darkest shade of eye shadow and trace the upper and lower lash lines, it doesn’t have to be too precise as you will smudge up towards the natural crease.

Use your second mid toned colour like a  soft dove grey/taupe/mocha or silvery tone to blend across the socket line with a small/medium sized eye shadow brush.

Sweep a wash of charcoal/black over lids and blend across the socket line with a small eye shadow brush for a seamless graduation of colour.

Applying eye shadow base ,  neutral wash of colour and a mid tone across the socket line

Applying  loose translucent powder under the eye and applying the charcoal/black shadow to lid and blending

                                                       

For a tiny accent use a silvery liner on the inner rim of eyes. Silver is great for blue and brown eyes.  Line the inner rim with kajal pencil for a stronger smoky eye look. Line the top lash line with liquid liner or smudge a kohl pencil close at the lash line for extra definition. Continue to line under the lash line with a kohl pencil and smudge it into the lashes with a small angled brush. 

To make the eyes pop add an accent of a silver or gold shimmer to the inner corner of the eye.

The Lash Effect: Curl lashes to give them a curve and complete with lashings of mascara to add intensity and sultriness. Load it deep into the base for a liner look.  Apply a few short, individual lashes to give the eye a feathery yet natural look.

A full flush: Smile, then apply blush to the apples of the cheek and blend up towards the hairline to give cheekbones a lift. Fair to medium skin tones should stay in the pink family and if you have a darker skin tone, choose a rich apricot shade.

Fuller lips: Choose a natural lip colour just slightly darker than your skin tone. Give shape by highlighting the top of the cupids bow with a shimmery nude eye shade. Feeling bolder then opt for a stronger red lipstick.

Beautiful brows: Brushed and gelled brows are fresh. They help make the eyes look wide awake.

Expert tips: The big, smoky secret is to blend the eye shadow through the bottom lashes with a small brush to create a sultry effect.

If you have trouble blending the smoky hue use some powder and blending brush to sweep across the edge to soften and gradually blend the colour. Moving in a windscreen wiper motion back and forth or small circular movements is the best way to blend the colour.

Work with less product and gradually build up your colour, rather than using too much all at once and ending up looking like panda eyes. A slightly moistened brush will allow you to deposit colour to the eyelid  and reduce fallout and intensify the pigment. If you have done your base first use loose powder under the eye to catch fallout that can easily be swept away.

Putting On The Glitz

This season the classic smoky eye is bringing out the big guns. From wet look vinyl eyes to chunky black glitter eyes with flecks of metallic. Chanel and Armani sent models down the runway with messy, went to bed in it smudged, not perfectly blended black glittery eyes.

For black eyes use a charcoal eye shadow to fill in the lids to the crease before lining the top and bottom lashes. Load up your fingertip or small brush with a gel based glitter and press over the top. It's meant to look lived in so the best bit is you don't need to be an expert to create this look.

Want something a little more dramatic add some bold colour and use defined lines. Exaggerate with jewels, false lashes and glittery lips.

Eye Brow Stencils

I recently began using ARTDECO Eye Brow Stencils  as I grow my own eye brows into a slightly thicker shape and they are simply fantastic.  Do you have uneven, misshapen brows? I highly recommend them for anyone who has trouble creating a defined and even brow line on both sides and is wanting to improve their own eyebrow shape.

They are also perfect for those wanting to create the popular celebrity brow shape of the likes of Katy Perry, Megan Fox, Angelina Jolie etc in a quick and simple way without too much fussing about. It’s as easy as 1,2,3!

1: Choose the eye brow stencil (thin, natural or thick) that matches your eyebrow shape. Place it on your eyebrow and hold in place with your thumb and forefinger.

2: Gather eyebrow powder with the enclosed brush applicator or use a slightly firmer eyebrow brush and apply inside the stencil cut out with your chosen brow powder.

3: Repeat the procedure on the other side by turning the stencil, removing any residual powder from the stencil beforehand.


Volia! Perfect brows.

Natural stencil

Thick Stencil

Get lashed

Not all of us are blessed with long, thick lashes and sometimes you may overuse the eye makeup  or false lashes, sleep in your makeup or use too harsh cleansers, and added with environmental pollution this can weaken the lashes and cause breakage or thinning of the lashes.

Get fabulous lashes by following these simple steps

Applied before mascara, nourish your eyelashes with a Lash Booster.  A base coat prior to your mascara protects and adds amazing volume, your lashes will look longer and fuller. Lash caring balms hydrate the lashes and give them a silky shine.

Mascara is the easiest way to dress up the eyes. For extra impact choose a shade one or two shades darker than your hair colour.

If your lashes a re short or straight use a heated or lightly warmed iron lash curler to curl the lashes. Be careful not to heat iron curlers too much, not only can your burn yourself but you can damage the lashes. Touch test on the back of your hand before using.

Brush mascara through the middle lashes first, turn your mascara wand vertically to get to the inner and outer lashes.

Remember to thoroughly remove all eye makeup and mascara before going to bed. If using a waterproof mascara  you will need use an oil based remover to remove all traces of product from the lashes.

Expert tip: For best results, apply two coats of mascara - and don't forget to wiggle!  Coat lashes from the base and wiggle down to the tip of the lash.

Stronger! Thicker! Longer! Faster!

The right mascara can thicken the sparse, fatten the thin and lengthen the short but the latest technology has introduced revolutionary new growth serums which will help condition and cultivate by nourishing the lashes as you sleep.

Lash Growth Activator is an intensive gel formula, packed with peptides to activate eyelash growth and boost even the most sensitive lashes while you sleep.

Biotin stimulates growth and this ultra conditioning regenerator promises to leave you with lashes visibly denser after 4 weeks of use.


I've been using Lash Growth Activator for some time and my lashes are long and feel much stronger than before.  After applying my night serum and moisturiser i apply the product through my lashes and it dries very quickly without any residue. If you are trying to grow your eyebrow shape out it's worth using on sparse brow hairs and on the fine lanugo hairs to give them a boost too.